There is always that sudden feeling after riding a solid wave during big conditions, that thought that rolls through your mind with anxiety attached to it ‘Do I pull off and risk a set on the head, or do I ride this thing all the way in and paddle back out in the channel’.
In this scenario Lucas ‘Chumbo’ Chianca wishes he chose the second of the two, it would have saved him a whole world of pain and a two wave wash through during a nasty session at the infamous Nazare recently featured in the video above.
Photo: @pikaphotography | Video: @psv_patrick | Surfer: @lucaschumbo
SEE the beginnings of Nazare’s rise to its current status & level global awareness with these excellent titles:
