If you follow big wave surfing then you’d be familiar with the name Greg Long. Greg is well known as one of the world’s best when it comes to riding huge waves, and his achievements speak for themselves. He’s the only person to have won The Quiksilver Eddie Aikau Invitational, The Mavericks Contest, and The Red Bull Big Wave Africa Event. He’s also won more Billabong XXL Big Wave Awards than anyone else.
The following video is from the movie Sine Qua Non, which takes a look into the mind of Greg. Featuring well known figures of the big wave surfing world, it touches on the dangers of the sport, along with some epic footage of wipeouts.
To watch the full movie, click below:
